Cast Iron Seared Sea Scallops in Brown Butter Caper Sauce

Scallops – surely one of the most delightful little treats the sea has ever produced--they look like little meaty marshmallows—and like that sugary treat, they come in two sizes: large and small.  The smaller versions are known as Bay Scallops, and if you’ve got some of those on your hands then I’d recommend checkout out my Coquilles Saint Jacques recipe.  That one may be the ultimate in gussied up scallop recipes.

But if you want a simple scallop recipe, one that celebrates the delicate flavor of the scallop itself, without too much accompaniment, then this one is your huckleberry.  For it, though, you’ll need the bigger of the two forms of scallops, known as Sea Scallops.  The little bay scallops are just too small to stand up to the heat of the cast iron skillet—they’ll overcook before they sear properly.  But the sea scallop, these my friends were made for this technique. 

Scallops, like a good steak or fish, are best on the somewhat rare side.  They should be cooked to an internal temp of around 130˚F and no more, or they will be rubbery.  On the other hand, and also like a good steak, a scallop does benefit from a good sear on the ends, which will provide some nice, caramelized flavor, and you can’t beat cast iron for accomplishing this.  Cast iron heats well and retains that heat, which is necessary to get a good sear. 

The sauce for this recipe, which I’m calling a brown butter sauce, is sort of a bastardized version of a French burre noisette sauce.  Burre Noisette literally translates to hazelnut butter, but there are no actual hazelnuts involved in the production of this butter.  It is called noisette because the butter turns a sort of hazelnut color, and gains a somewhat nutty flavor form allowing the milk solids in the butter to brown slightly.  We’ll be augmenting this sauce with some white wine and capers, but otherwise the sauce is simple enough for the scallop flavor to really shine through. 

Cast Iron Seared Sea Scallops in Brown Butter Caper Sauce

1 Lb Sea Scallops, Drained

3 Tablespoons Peanut Oil

6 Tablespoons Butter

1/2 Cup White Wine

2-3 Tablespoons Capers

1 Tablespoon Cornstarch

2 Oz Water

Get yourself a good cast iron skillet.  

Nothing 'cept maybe copper heats as evenly, and nothing retains heat as well, which is crucial to gettting a good sear quickly.  Add the peanut oil (other other high smoke point oil) and heat until it is just beginning to smoke, which is really hot, say around 440˚F, which just happens to be the smoke point of peanut oil.  If you don't have a thermometer, then just get it to where it is just beginning to smoke and you'll be good.  

While it's heating, place your scallops on some paper toweling and pat dry.  

If you want, you can remove the little extra piece of flesh from the side of each scallop (known as the 'foot') to make them more uniform.  

Add the scallops to the hot, smoking skillet, placing them down on the flat side as opposed to the round.  

Let them sear for at least two minutes, maybe more.  You can gently put sideways pressure on them with some tongs.  When they release they are usually read to flip.  

Sometimes when they release, though, they still don't have a complete sear, like a few in this picture. 

You can flip these back over but keep an eye on them.  

You want to get a nice, solid sear on them, like these two here--golden brown, almost caramelized--they will be brimming with flavor.  

Let the second side sear and then get 'em off the heat--the big sea scallops can stand up to searing, but even they will overcook if you leave them on too long.  And the sear should be a deep golden brown, not black.  

Move them to a paper-lined plate and keep warm.  

Reduce heat and let skillet cool a bit.  Add butter to the skillet and let it sauté for about thirty seconds.

Since you're pan is probably still pretty hot, the butter solids will brown pretty quickly, and you want them just browned, not burned.  Have the wine ready and when the butter just begins to brown, add the wine to slow the cooking.  

Stir to combine and scrape up browned bits from the pan.  Let  wine simmer for a couple minutes until reduced by half.  

Add the capers with some of their juice.  

Admire the beautiful concoction.  

Then stir to combine.  

Mix the cornstarch with the water and then add this to the sauce to thicken it.  

Let cook until it thickens enough so that a spatula scraped across will leave a gap that is slow to close.  

Serve the scallops with the sauce drizzled over the top, making sure to get plenty of capers on board.  

Here we've served them simply with a mini Pommes Anna.  

Until next time, 

Come out of your shell and have some scallops!

Chris

       

Chicken Marango

Chicken Marango is one of those old school French dishes that you don't see much anymore, which is a shame, because it's a tasty French dish that departs from the norm by using some predominately Italian ingredients.

The story goes that the dish was invented by Napoleon's chef after the battle of Marango,  Being as the army was in Italy, and were light on provisions, local ingredients were sourced and thus, Chicken Marango was born.  Napoleon was said to have loved it and ate it before (or was it after) every subsequent battle.

Whether this story is true or not is lost in the mists of time, but one thing that is certain is that this recipe has changed over the years, with more modern recipes omitting certain ingredients like eggs and crayfish, and adding mushrooms and red wine.  My version does this as well.  Also, cutting up a whole chicken and using all the various pieces would be more traditional (and perhaps provide a richer, more flavorful dish, with the addition of the dark meat) but tonight it is just the two of us, so I've just done a couple of breasts Marango style.  Sub whatever chicken parts you like.

Chicken Marango

2 Chicken Breasts (or Chicken Parts of your Choice)
3-4  Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/3 Cup Flour
Salt and Pepper
1 Large Yellow Onion, Diced
2 Cups Chicken Stock
5-6 Garlic Cloves, Minced
1 Cup (or so) White Wine
1 Can (14 Oz) Beef Consommé
1 Can (28 Oz) Crushed Tomatoes
6 Oz Mushrooms (White, Cremini or Similar) Sliced
3-4 Oz Large Green Olives
1 Bouquet Garni (Herb Bouquet of Parsley, Rosemary, Thyme and Bay Leaves)


Heat the olive oil in a large skillet.  Dredge the chicken pieces and flour and then season them with salt and pepper.  Sauté the chicken until golden brown but note all the way cooked through.

Set aside and keep warm.

Add more olive oil if necessary and then sauté the diced onion until it begins to turn translucent and slightly golden.

Add the minced garlic at this point and sauté another minute or two.

Add the wine and deglaze the pan at this point.

Allow to simmer a few minutes and then add the chicken stock.  When this is warmed through add the beef consommé

and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

Add the sliced mushrooms and allow these to cook through.  Add the bouquet garni at this point.

Add the crushed tomatoes

and bring the liquid back to a simmer.  Return the chicken pieces to the skillet and cook through. Sauce should thicken as the chicken cooks, but if it is not to your liking when the chicken is done, remove them and allow the sauce to continue to cook until thickened.  Remove bouquet garni and discard it.

Serve the chicken with the sauce and the addition of the olives.

Bon Appitit!



Chris

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Chicken with Creamy Mustard Sauce

I have a secret to confess--I've had a lifelong love affair with mustard.  It all started innocently enough.  A little Cheap Yeller Mustard on a hot dog as a kid.  Next thing you know, I'm jonesin' every time the Grey Poupon commercial comes on.  I've got it bad, friends.  There's nigh on fifteen different mustards stashed away in my fridge and cupboard.  Maybe more.

I've even visited Dijon, France, surely the Mecca of the mustard world if there ever was one.  It's a place so wonderful the mustard truly flows from taps instead of beer.

I'm not kidding.  Mustard on tap in Dijon, France

The Eat'n Man loves him some Mustard on tap!

So, if you're into the 'yellow fairy' as much as I am, the best thing to do is just embrace your inner mustard-aholic and use it with wild abandon.  And mustard is not just something to slather on your burger or corn dog, It's a viable ingredient in its own right, and it veritably sings in this savory chicken dish here.

Mustard Chicken

2 Chicken Breasts, Sliced in Half Crosswise into Cutlets
4 Tablespoons Butter
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
8 Oz White or Crimini Mushrooms
1 Large Shallot, Chopped
2/3 Cup White Wine
3 Cloves Garlic, Minced
3 Tablespoons Traditional (Smooth) Dijon Mustard
3 Tablespoons Whole Grain Dijon Mustard
1 Cup Heavy Cream
1/2 Cup Chicken Stock
1 Tablespoon Fresh Tarragon

Melt butter with the olive oil in a large skillet.

While it's melting, slice your chicken breasts in half crosswise, along the flat,

so that you have two thin cutlets from each breast.  Sauté the breasts until they are golden brown and just cooked through.

Don't overcook 'em.  In fact, you might undercook 'em a bit, since you will be holding them in a warm oven while we make the sauce.  You can check to make sure they are done before you serve.

Transfer the breasts to a casserole dish and hold in a 225˚F oven until ready to serve.

Meanwhile, make your sauce.

Slice your mushrooms in half

and sauté them until they are golden brown and soft.

Reserve.  Add the white wine to the skillet and deglaze.

Chop the shallot...

...and add it to the skillet.

Add the garlic.  If you have a fancy garlic press like we do, it can make short work of mincing.

Now, the mustard.

Ah, I can't help admiring the freshly opened jars of yellow goodness.  We're using two types of Dijon mustard today to really ramp up the flavor.  You could of course try other sorts and you'd probably come up some something nice as well.

Add the mustards to the skillet and stir to combine.

Add the cream.

Add the chicken stock and the tarragon.

Stir while you simmer the sauce for a few minutes.

Taste and adjust with salt and pepper as necessary.

Serve immediately over the chicken.  You can reintroduce the mushrooms to the sauce before hand, or just some 'em on the side, as we've done here.

Until Next Time,


Bon Appetit!

Chris

Duck Breast in Red Wine Sauce

Ah, Duck.  While it's one of the great delicacies of the culinary world, Duck is one dish in which many Americans never partake.  This is a shame, because Duck is rich, savory, succulent and full of flavor; it's surprisingly meaty, almost like a beefsteak, and it holds up well to fancy, full-flavored sauces like this red wine sauce presented here.

Duck should be on your culinary agenda to try--and not just at that fancy French restaurant that you've been meaning to try.  Duck is quite easy to prepare at home, and--though not foolproof, it can be quite simple.  This dish here is about as simple as it gets, but your guests will think you slaved away at this one with as much rich flavor as it ha.  And the thing is, even though we are saucing it up, most of the flavor comes from the duck meat itself.

Duck Breast in Red Wine Sauce

1 10-12 Oz Duck Breast
2/3 Cup Beef Stock
2/3 Cup Red Wine
1 Tablespoon Tomato Paste
1 Teaspoon Lemon Juice
2 Tablespoons Butter
Dash Herbs de Province
Salt and Black Pepper to Taste

First, get a hold of a good duck breast.  Round here, this isn't something you can usually find in your run of the mill grocery store.  We found what we were looking for at Central Market, where we opted to spend a little extra to go with a Muscovy Duck Breast, rather than run-of-the-mill Mallard.

Since it was just the two of us, one breast (at almost a pound) was plenty to split.  If you've got more mouths to feed, just multiply the ingredients above as needed.

To begin, score the skin side of the breast with a sharp knife

in a crosshatched pattern.

This will help the breast cook evenly and allow it to release its precious fat.  Whatever you do, don't ever remove the skin--its perhaps the best part--it crisps up nicely and also has a great deal of the duck fat that we'll be using later.

Sauté the duck breast skin side down 

over medium-high heat in a skillet for around ten minutes.  This is one of the few cases when you won't have to add any oil or fat to the pan first--the breast will release its own as you sauté.  

After a few minutes, the breast begins to release its fat

This duck fat is like gold, or maybe even platinum.  It is rich, decadent and flavorful.  If you have never had French fries fried in duck fat then you are truly missing out.  Always save the duck fat when you cook a dish like this.  You can freeze it and keep it for several months, or better still, use it to make a side dish for your duck breast.  Vegetables or mushrooms sautéd in duck fat are fabulous; you could also toss some potato chunks in the fat and then roast them, or even scramble your eggs the following morning in a little bit of it.  Today, we'll be reserving some for our sauce.  

Reserved Duck Fat  -- Pure Gold, Baby!

After the skin side of the breast crisps up, flip it and cook on the other side for another five minutes or so.  

Of course take a moment and admire that beautifully crisped skin.

Using a meat thermometer, check the temp of the breast at its thickest part.  Duck is poultry, so the USDA is gonna tell you to cook it to 160F, but this will dry it out and toughen it.  Duck, however, is also a red meat, and thus you can get away with medium rare, which is what we prefer, around 135 F on the thermometer.  Pull the breast when it is this temp 

and keep warm.  

Remove all but about two tablespoons of the duck fat from the skillet.  (reserve that fat!)  Add the beef stock to the skillet.  

Add the red wine.  

Add the tomato paste.  

Stir to combine.  Add the lemon juice

Add the butter.  Stir until melted.  

Add the herbs and then salt and pepper to taste.  Cook until sauce thickens a bit.  

Slice the breast crosswise 

from one end to the other.  

Serve immediately with the sauce.  

Until next time, 

Chris